Photography Histogram
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Photography Histogram
How do I learn to work with histograms?
Digital Photography
There are plenty of tutorials on the internet about histograms. http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/histograms1.htm
Photography Histogram
Which do I need…Hood or filter?
I have recently bought myself a Canon 40D and do most of my photography during late morning – mid afternoon when unfortunately the sun is at its brightest.
Being an enthusiastic learner I am trying to my best efforts to get the best results with the aid of the cameras histograms – which are obviously all over the place due to the ever changing sunlight.
What I would like to know,is what would be the best move to minimise this problem,a lens hood or a lens filter?
Many thanks in advance.
It’s hard to say considering you didn’t mention where you were relative to the sun. The morning and evening light can be a wonderful and magical time to photograph. The light is warm and dramatic. Of course it is full of its challenges as well. The problems are range from lens flare and glare to a very wide brightness range. The tools you need depend on the specific problem you are having.
First, a lens hood is always a good investment. It works by blocking direct light coming across the lens. This will get rid of lens flare in many situations. Basically if the shadow cast by the hood goes all the way across the lens, it is working perfectly.
Second, you can get glare from glass, water, metal, plastic, and just about any man-made smooth surface. The polarizing lens really helps in these situations. It tames the reflections causing the glare, allowing you to peer beneath the surface of the water.
If neither of the above help, it may be that your scene just has too wide a range of values. If you are shooting something that is half in shadow and half in direct light, you are probably going to lose a bit of detail. There’s not much that can be done without changing the light some way.
I highly recommend the book “Light: Science and Magic” to help better understand what is happening with light, and what options you have for difficult situations. The book focuses on how light behaves, and less on flash technology and the like. It’s just as useful for landscape photographers as it is for portrait photographers.
Photography Tutorial – Perfect Exposures, The Histogram Pt 1
Photo: How do I make my image of "good" in a histogram?
Many of my images are not part of the histogram. How I can get my photo to enter judgments? I do not want to lose detail in the darkest shadows and lights the lighter.
Photoace is man always follow their advice, it will not. I can explain a little advice if I can. If I talk over your head Forgive me as I have no knowledge of your skill level tell me I have to lower the level, think I need something simpler for me sometimes. In the good old days of cinema, there was one thing that the call was essentially free capacity film and photography a ladder of light from darkness to light. So if you take a stage with bright and deep shadows, there was virtually no way the film could correctly interpret the information for your eyes. There was some technical assistance, such as pushing, pulling, burning and dodging, but the truth of the matter is, if you draw a bright object, without detail, more than likely be just a white area in the picture because the camera can not see the details better than you, in fact, far from being as good. Even with the shadows. You may be able to see the detail in your image with your camera lenses, but struggles to fill the information contained in these latitudes must give a little to each end, clear and dark. A look old / Life photographer named Bob Lerner taught me something good eyeball if details can be seen on film. As for your topic and narrowed eyes open enough to be able to see that change dramatically what the eye sees and approaches the film can handle. digital faces the same problems and in some cases, the film has more flexibility than the digital sensor. A good way to help in this regard is the number one place not in anything else than manual, I trust my camera on the subway, but Daliya check against my hand held meters. One day, just to make a test session. Support in both directions increases as much as the camera allows. Upload your photos on your computer and put one next to the coast. see what the images include details on both ends. It may be surprised to learn that the fact that the speedometer needle is centered in reality may be your best show, in fact, seemed different from most people. I always make a stop at anything. At first it was hard for me to go against what is said meters, but the fact of the matter before digital shooters had to learn quickly to determine the exposure to fast-moving scenes, without the luxury of telling everyone to hold all it took a light reading. If you find that the best exposure for you is against the current meter, do not worry. Go with it, learn to trust their instincts and time of your computer. Hope this helps. Chris. (Good to see ACE)
Histograms | Histogram | Digital Photography | Camera
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